Welcome to Monrovia, Liberia!

Sunday, January 26, 2013:  arrival in Monrovia.  While taxiing to the gate, I saw the World Food Program tents.  And the UN presence.  Getting through the airport wasn’t too bad (and all my luggage arrived). 

It was after dark when we got to the Peace Corps vehicles and were driven to the PC training facility in Kapata.  On our way we drove through the very large Firestone facility – rubber trees, processing plant, etc.  (Recommended:  Google “Firestone Liberia history” or something like that.) 

Monday:  Training

Tuesday:  Training, including visit to local school (more about that later)

Wednesday:  Training and trip to Monrovia (for overnight).  Stopped by PC office, did administrative things, and then went on a walking tour of the city.  Monrovia (downtown) is small, bustling, not particularly safe, and “struggling”.  Lots of Liberians running small businesses, and lots of NGOs in town (and facilities and expat/NGO housing behind high walls with barbed wire – with security guards). 

When we went to the PC office I thought “This is a lot of security to guard a bunch of volunteers with backpacks and Chacos…”  (Security there includes the high wall, metal gate, and all vehicles (including PC vehicles) have their engines and under the vehicle checked (mirrors) before they can enter.  And PC is just one of the many, many organization driving around in “real” Landrovers with red diplomatic (or other official) plates.  I’ve seen the Chinese Development people, UN vehicles, USAID, and everything else under the sun.  (And umpteen signs for various aid agencies.) 

Again, every official organization is highly guarded with walls, barbed wire (or glass atop the concrete walls), metal gates (you honk, the guard peers out, and then pulls the gate open), etc. 

We’ve been repeatedly warned against theft.

Example:  The currently serving Peace Corps Response Volunteer had the following experiences a couple of weeks ago.  He was in downtown Monrovia at 10pm, he was attacked by a few men for his iphone and wallet, he gave the phone but resisted giving his wallet, a crowd saw what was happening, chased the men, stoned them and one of the thieves died. 

The same volunteer seems to know everyone and everything of interest to do.  He suggested we go to an abandoned hotel to see the view.  Basically, when the war broke out, the hotel was vacated and eventually locals looted the entire thing.  Today it is an empty concrete building.  Our visit went something like this:  We walked up to the hotel, our guide found his squatter friend and then talked to the security guard there about getting us up to the roof.   (There were lots and lots of locals up there, largely kids, hanging out, too.)  The security guard was offended that our guide went to the squatter first and a shouting match ensued (between security and the squatter).  Eventually both were given a sum of money by our guide (some would call this a bribe) and the guard brought us up to the 8^th or 9^th floor for the view.  Great view of the city!  Ocean, Westpoint (aka very poor area), bridge, abandoned Masonic Temple, etc.  While up there, we saw a gagillion bats flutter out of one of the big trees. 

Post walking tour, we had dinner at a restaurant literally on the beach.  (To get to the restaurant, you drive into the behind-a-gate guarded parking lot.)  I put my feet in the ocean (though water in that area isn’t considered to be clean because a) people use the beach as a toilet, b) rivers dump into the ocean there, and c) I’m sure city sewage also dumps there).  Ironically, Vietnamese food was the specialty (the chef is Vietnamese-American.)  Restaurant was 90% American/European. 

We spend the evening in St. Theresa’s Convent/Guesthouse.  It is one of the few establishments that stayed open during the war/”conflict”.  (Apparently the head nun is the woman featured in many documentaries about the war in Liberia.)  We got back to the convent after dark to find no electricity but the way to our rooms was lit by a few candles placed on the floor in the corridors.  A great reminder of the challenges the country, including the capital, face.  A member of the PC staff, when I pointed out that we didn’t have drinking water, went out and returned with bottled water.  (The tap water was on, but a) isn’t always good for foreign stomachs and b) was running at a very slow rate.  I had a quick “shower” before bed and got to rinse soap off with a “stream” of water that was equivalent to drippy faucets I’ve seen.  Aka enough water to make a single stream, but not enough to easily clean off a toothbrush.  (At midnight the electricity came on again with the AC.) 

Which is all to say that this is certainly the poorest country I’ve spent time in.  (Which is a little obviously actually, because in terms of income, it’s arguable the poorest country in the world – literally (look up UN statistics).)  Apparently average annual income is $250. 

All that being said, Peace Corps has a GREAT reputation here (more about that later), I will be spending very little time in Monrovia, the PC staff are excellent, and I have a whole bunch of things to look forward to.  Like being a “real” PC Volunteer – aka living in a house with no electricity or running water (Russia wasn’t nearly as hardcore), trying new food (monkey meat), and…  being able to catch a ride on the UNMIL (United Nations Mission in Liberia) helicopters if there is space.  :D

Which is all to say that this is going to be tough, but I’m not overwhelmed (yet).  ;) 

You're going to Liberia why...?

I have a variety of stupid excuses for going to Liberia.  Like "I worked pretty hard to move all my stuff to my parent's basement pre-Georgia; why not getting a second trip out of all that effort?" And "I don't particularly enjoy spring in Boston."  And "No mortgage, no kids, no commitments."  

But on a more serious note, I think possibly the easiest way to explain why I'm going to Liberia is this:  Because I can.

I can explain.  And there are some other reasons, too.

1.  Because there are no guarantees. 
This time last year, a friend of my then-significant other was trying to figure out the medical issues he was encountering.  Eventually a diagnosis was made:  pancreatic cancer.  What a reminder that, just because I have my health now, doesn't mean something screwy isn't going to happen next year/month/week.*   

This summer, while in Cappadocia, Turkey, a fellow (Australian) traveler commented that "Most people live their lives backwards.  They work when they're young, with the intent to travel when they're older.  But when they're older, they often can't due to health issues.  We should live our lives the other way around."

Ergo, if I have the opportunity to go to Liberia now, why not take advantage of that opportunity?  Who wants to look back and say "I always wanted to do that.  But never did.  And now I can't."

2.  Because I can; I have my health (and so do my parents).  
A few years ago, my summer began with me in a Boston hospital wondering "What do you mean there might be a problem?  I'm a mostly-vegetarian who eats organic food and exercises.  What do you mean you want to send my medical information to an oncologist for a second opinion!?!"  While I was (and am) fine, I know many people who have encountered unexpected (or chronic) medical issue.  And these aren't elderly people.  Often cancer related.  There's something about such an experience to help one re-prioritize.  In addition to me having my health, my parents have theirs.  Why wait? 

3.  Because I haven't spent much time in Africa.  
A bunch of years ago I was meeting a friend at an event at Harvard which recognized the work that women were doing in post-conflict regions of the world.  The honored guests were women from Rwanda.  One of the women and I started chatting.  She asked "Have you ever been to Africa?"  My response was a sheepish facial expression, the rocking hand gesture that means "so-so" and that "Mmmmmm" noise that means "Maybe?".  She smiled, patted my hand and said "You've been to Morocco."  "Yes," I replied.  "But I do plan to go to Africa for real one day."

Then, when interviewing for my upcoming position, I was asked "Why do you want to go to West Africa?  You haven't been to Africa before."  I corrected her (reminding her that I'd spent over three weeks in Tamale, Ghana) and then talked about what interested me about the position.  But, in addition to the explanation I gave her, there was another reason:  I never want to be asked that question again.

In addition to enjoying seeing "new" places, as someone with a long standing interest in development issues, it feels important to spend time in a place that is facing so many of the issues that so many poor countries are struggling with. 

 4.  Because maybe the experience will contribute to some divine idea about what to do next.  
I would love to have a long-term plan for my life.  And there are times when I wish that I'd be satisfied getting some job that I can work in until it's time to retire (or die).  Unfortunately, however, I don't have a firm plan and I don't want to settle for something that is unfulfilling.  So I continue to collect experiences in the hope that one day they will come together in some ah-ha! moment. 

5.  There's some unfinished business.  Odds and ends...  
I've worked for the federal government before.  And I spent time in Ghana a couple of summers ago.  And I'm not done with either. 



* Given the "Carpe Diem" reminder that TC's illness provided me, it was a little ironic that his final demise happened a couple of weeks ago, while I was home in Boston between my Georgia and Liberia adventures.

Wait... You're going to Liberia?

Yes, I'm going to Liberia.  At least, assuming I get my passport - which is supposed to arrive on Thursday.  I depart on Saturday.  Two days after I get my passport.  But first, a few answers to some common questions. 

Where is Liberia?  For how long? 
I will be with Peace Corps Response in Liberia for six months.  Peace Corps Response is a Peace Corps gig open to people who have already done a full (27 month) Peace Corps gig somewhere.  Because I was in Russia for 2 years a bunch of years ago, I can apply for PC Response (which used to be called Crises Corps).  PC Response gigs are shorter than regular PC gigs - 3, 6, 9, 12 months. 

What will you be doing? 
I will be teaching high school English, likely in the southeastern part of the country.

Is it safe?  Isn't there a war going on there?  
There was a civil war in Liberia.  But it's over.  And Peace Corps is back.  PC had been in Liberia years ago, left due to the war, and it currently in the process of transitioning to "regulr" PC country.  The first PC volunteers to go in after the war were Response volunteers and then they gradually began transitioning to a regular two year program.  As a Response volunteer I will be helped to meet the need of too few teachers in the country while also essentially trying out a "new" site that, eventually, a two year volunteer will move into.

As for safety, the official answer is "Yes, it's safe.  PC only goes to safe places."   The more accurate answer might be "It will be as safe as I make it.  Kind of like Boston.  If I walked in traffic in Boston, drunk off my ass, in the middle of the night, it might not be safe.  But I like to think I'd avoid such unsafe situations."  ;) 

And then there's the biggest question, WHY?  Why are you going?  
See next post... 

Tbilisi > Boston; Boston > Monrovia

I arrived back in Boston one month ago.  On the 21st, I flew from Tbilisi to Warsaw to Chicago, and then, as I'd feared, I was delayed in Chicago due to weather.  Despite my annoyance, it actually worked out.  I had had the foresight to ensure my phone would be reactivated prior to my arrival, so the first few hours in Chicago were full of phone calls as I booked a flight for the following day and found a hotel for the evening. 

Interestingly, another teacher was on the same flight to Chicago, so we teamed up for the evening and enjoyed our first Americana meal together in the Chicago Airport Hyatt.  I understood why he didn't want the cucumber-tomato salad that came with his burger and he understood why I thought the iceberg lettuce wedge with blue cheese was a great way to being my time back in the United States. 

The next day, after a great night's sleep, I flew to Boston, was driven to Hull by my parents, and, later that evening, drove into Somerville to attend a friend's party.  I'm not sure I recommend that - attending a party a few hours after arriving home after being gone for nine months, but I'm glad I did it.  Though I certainly felt a little out of it that evening. 

And then there was Christmas.  And New Year's.  And then...  preparing for my next adventure - in Liberia (West Africa).  Truth be told, I was hoping that the Liberia departure date would be a little later - like February 1st.   But driving from Hull to Quincy to get on the subway (metro) to go into Boston is getting a little old so I might as well get on to Liberia, right? 

Irony: Walking up to the elevator

Elevators generally have a few basic purposes.
1.  Getting people who can't or don't want to take the stairs from one level to another.
2.  Get heavy stuff up and down so that people don't need to carry it.

So, I was amused to find that, in the apartment building I spend several days in, I needed to walk up 23 steps to get to the elevator.  And, once I got to my destination level, I needed to head up another half-flight of stairs to the destination apartment.  Not particularly useful for people who can't or don't want to take the stairs.

View up the elevator.  There are 7 steps to get to the level I stood on to take the photo. 

View from the apartment door down to the elevator. 

But, I thought, maybe they're really only there for heavy loads.  Well, not only does someone with, say, a piano, not want to walk up 23 stairs to get to the elevator, but the elevator is also too small to carry large items.  Sure, you can put a bag of potatoes in it, but with dimensions that don't exceed four feet square, it cannot carry furniture.  In fact, most pieces of furniture wouldn't fit in because the door is extremely narrow, certainly less then 2 feet wide. 

The stairs aren't the only challenge.  First, there's the light (or lack there of).  (In my photos, the flash is helping out.)  Normally, it's dark until the motion sensor detects me.  Inside the elevator, there is no light at night.  And second, the final three steps are *really shallow*.  As in, if I stand on the steps, my heels aren't on the step.

Which makes me wonder what the point of the elevator is.  I don't know when the building was built, but if it was after the Great Patriot War (aka WWII) I'd think that at least a few veterans could have used an elevator.  And parents with baby carriages could use on (and a larger elevator).

Then again, the elevator only works if the electricity works, and that hasn't always been the case. 

How to make a Whiskey Sour in Georgia

I recently had dinner with a Georgian friend in Tbilisi who asked how my housing search was going.  In a city  where people find apartments by word of mouth and where many landlords have a "no foreigners" policy, finding apartments is difficult.  After nearly two weeks of living in dorms at the Police Academy, I was a little tired of the lack of privacy and lack of kitchen.  I said this, at dinner.

Her response was as follows:  "I'm going to Bulgaria on business.  Do you want to stay at my place for four days?  I'm sorry I couldn't offer it to you on my prior business trip - a friend was going through a nasty break-up, so he was staying at my place."  I wasn't sure what the right response was.  I was thinking "YESSSSSS!"  But, I also didn't want to accept an offer if she was only being polite.  Long story short, I took her up on it. 

The afternoon the apartment was free, I ventured over with the spare key.  And, like I always do, first inspected the fridge.  Okay, that's not true.  First I determined there was an actual bath tub.  (And wondered if it would be appropriate to fill it up with hot water and scented bath salts.  Does she pay alot for hot water?  Does the hot water even work?)  THEN I inspected the fridge and found that, yes, she never cooks. 

Next stop, the grocery store.  I returned a few hours later with eggs, milk, onions, potatoes, vegetables, spices, nuts and ...  whiskey.  While out, I decided what I really wanted was a whiskey sour. 

Here is how you make a whiskey sour in Georgia. 

1.  Reflect on whether there is ice in the fridge.  If not, consider freezing water in a plastic bag and breaking it up.  Thankfully, my host has an ice tray.  This isn't standard in Georgian freezers. 

2.  Go buy whiskey.  If you're like me, you'd never be caught with Johnny Walker Red in your personal bar.  One starts with JW Black and moves up.  But in Georgia, you need to reassess.  Go into the store, check out the whisky collection.  If you don't know the brand to be legit, don't buy it.  Try to read the prices.  It's tough as the liquor is at least 7 feet in the air, on a shelf behind the counter.  Ask the woman behind the counter the price of the JW Black.  That's "Johnny Walker Chorney" (JW Black - in Russian).  And, to compare, also ask about the Kraskey (Red).  She'll hop up onto a chair, need you to repeat what you want, and start reading prices (printed on small stickers on the bottles).  And eventually you select your whiskey.  It's okay to buy JW Red - it's 20 lari for a small bottle.   Why spend 50 lari for a larger JW Black if you're going back to alcohol-free dorms - and don't want to incriminate yourself by leaving a half-empty bottle of JW Red at your host's place.  Besides, you're mixing it.  No one will every know you let your standards drop. 
2b.  Buy a lemon while you're out.   You can buy lemons in Tbilisi off-season; you cannot do this in the village. 

3.  Return to apartment and assess the simple syrup situation.  The sugar bowl.  How much sugar is there?  Simple syrup is 1/2 water, 1/2 sugar.  Heat it up in your hot's frying pan.  Put it in a tea cup and let it cool in the fridge. 

4.  Now it's time to assemble:  Take a chacha (hard alcohol) shot glass and fill it with whiskey.  Put in a glass.  Then add a similar amount of simple syrup.  And then a bunch of lemon juice.  And now to shake...  Your host doesn't have a Boston Shaker...  What to do? 

5.  Put the entire mixture, plus ice, into your travel coffee mug.  WTF!?!  Yes, really.  Screw the top on and shake.

6.  Take the top off, pour into glass.  Be careful to avoid getting lemon seeds into your drink - it's not like the coffee mug people had lemon seeds in mind.

7.  Mmmmm...

Services in Georgia (Batumi, Tbilisi, etc.)

Below is a list of services I've stumbled upon while living in Georgia.  Please feel free to contact me if you see inconsistencies or things that should be added/updated. 

Hair: 
Salon Podium.  Sergei does a great hair cut for those with short hair (women included).
15 lari (yes, seriously, 15 in July 2012). 
locations:  There are two locations.  I went to the downtown location, not the Vake location. 
How to get there: Head down (street), towards the Casino....

Pedicure:  
Salon Podium also does pedicures, manicures, etc.  Pedicure was 27 lari in July 2012.  

Massage: 
Thai Massage Center: Tbilisi.  Thai massage for 55 lari, relaxation massage for 60 lari.  Email them to make a reservation.  Thai owned (or so it appears) with English speaking Georgian working the desk.  Cash only. 
Address:  Kostava 75/a
Note that to find them you need to go through an underpass into the residential area and walk back a couple of minutes.  See map on backside of card (below).  

Another Thai massage location:  Next door to the Roman Catholic Church in Tbilisi's Old Town.  Details to come.  

Relaxation massage (Batumi): 
Address:  located across the street from the main covered fruit/vegetable market (that is behind the Roman Catholic church).  

The Raddison in Batumi also gives massages, but they are very pricey.
 

Grocery Stores:
Good Will (Tbilisi):  Very large superstore - with food and lots of other stuff.  Great to know about but there are a bunch of products I was looking for that I couldn't find.  Example:  there is no baking powder (as opposed to soda), brown rice, soba noodles, tortellini, ...  In terms of non-food items, they sell bikes but no helmets.  No reflective tape.  Didn't have the special battery I needed. 

Carrefore (Tbilisi):  Located in Tbilisi Mall.  Huge and awesome.  Probably the best the selection of products in all Georgia.  No metro service.  Mall is in the north part of the city.  Ask a taxi to take you to "Tbilisi mall" or "Tbilisi Mall-i".  

Smart Market (Tbilisi):  Located on Rustaveli next to Radison Blu.  Good selection.  Spice section is somewhat limited (and in Spanish). 

Good Will (Batumi):  Much, much smaller than the Tbilisi store.  Has a more extensive line than a traditional Georgian store.

Willmart (Batumi):  Better than Batumi's Goodwill.  More products, larger store.  Apparently prices are also slightly lower.  There are a few products (like balsamic vinegar) that, interesting, Willmart doesn't have but Goodwill does.
Address:
How to get there: 

Turkish Store (Batumi):  Great store if you're looking for spices, chic peas, ayran or other dairy products.  Plus a bunch of standard Georgian groceries. 

Other Shopping:  There is a new Tbilisi mall.  It can be reached by taking the Metro to (stop) and then taking a bus.  The mall is more empty than full at this point (July 2012) but it currently has a Clarks, Gap, and Banana Republic (if memory serves). 

For shopping, also consider crossing into Turkey from Batumi.  It's an easy day-trip from Batumi. 

Restaurants in Batumi:  


Press Cafe:  Has wifi.  A little pricey.  Started by Peace Corps volunteer. 
Cafe Literatura:  Has wifi.  A little pricey.  Lobiani is good.  A chain with a few locations in Tbilisi. 
Piazza - Good Woman Pub
Piazza - other restaurant
Vinyl - next to Iranian embassy. 
Blue restaurant on water.

Restaurants in Tbilisi:  

Hangar Bar:  One of the best sports bars in town.  They serve breakfast all day. 
Betsy's Hotel Pub:  Very popular with Tbilsi's long-term expat community.  Located up the hill from Rustaveli Metro.  32-34 Makashvili Street. 
Cafe Gallery:  Located a few minutes from Rustaveli Metro.  Free wifi.  Tasty food.  Comfortable place to sit with a computer or book for several hours at time. 

Tasty treats:  
Pastry and baklava store in Turkish area of Batumi. 

Trains:  
You can purchase train tickets in Batumi at 5 General Mazniashvili St (between Melashvili and Abashidze).  Bring a passport, even if it's a domestic train trip.  (For train trips, bring your own food and water.) 

Batumi Airport:  
Warning:  if you're ticket is from Hopa, you need to go to Hopa, Turkey to check in.  A bus will bring you back to Batumi for the flight. 

Bicycle shop: 
Batumi - 59 and 61 Pushkin Street.  There are two bike shops in Batumi on Pushkin street.  I'm not sure which is which - 59 vs 61, but one has lots of spare parts, a few helmets, lights, tires, etc.  They do not have reflective tape - I had that sent from home. 

English language library:  
Batumi library has an American corner.  With free wifi.  The book collection includes fiction, nonfiction, study guides, and TEFL materials.  The DVD collection is mostly kids stuff, but there is some adult stuff also (mostly classics).  If you're a local resident, you can get a card.  A card allows you to check out books (fiction and nonfiction) and DVDs.  Bring a passport to get a card. 

How to cross into Turkey at Sarpi:  
If you are an American, a visa will cost you $20 (90 day, multiple entry).  If you are Canadian, it will cost you $60 USD.  Bring your passport to the border at Sarpi, go through the line and eventually you'll be shooed to go purchase your visa (and return to have it inspected).  Fairly easy process.  The border also has a duty free and a Turkey cafeteria.