Liberia Probable FAQs - Part I - "What is Liberia like?"

It is May.  Which means I haven’t posted anything new for a long time. 

The basic reason is because I knew a few months ago that I didn’t know enough about what I was seeing to make any intelligent observations.  And I was going to need some time to figure out what was going on. 

And then today, I received a text from the person who will be following me and I though “Wow!  I thought I was at the halfway point.  Turns out I’m farther alone than that.”  Time to post observations…  starting with a few probable FAQs. 

Probable FAQs: 

What is Liberia like?  What is life in Liberia like? 
For those who have been asked this about experiences living overseas, I will apologize for including this question in my list of FAQs.  ;)  For those who hadn’t been asked such a question before, this is a somewhat ridiculous question.  Before asking someone to sum up life in a country into 2-3 sentences, ask yourself if you could sum up life wherever you live, to someone who knows little to nothing about it, in 2 sentences.  Tell me about life in Washington, DC!  Tell me about life in New York!  Tell me about life in Moscow!  Tell me about life in Tokyo!  Or worse yet:  Tell me about life in the United States!  Tell me about life in Russia!  Tell me about life in Japan!  Do you mean what does the place look like?  Or what are the people like?  Or what do you do?  Or are the stories I see on the news true?  Or what?  

Okay, point taken.  Seriously.  But what is life in Liberia like? 
Okay.  In my experience, in the one community I have live in, for the few months that I’ve been here…  Barclayville is a pretty community, that feels like a community – as opposed to a place where a bunch of people who have built their lives around a commercial strip of road (which is what I think places like Pleebo and Zwedru feel like).  People are nice and friendly.  I haven’t experienced theft or violence.  (Theft is a big issue in other areas of the country.) 

But Liberia is a developing country, trying to rebuild after years of civil war.  It is arguably on the list of 10 poorest countries in the world.  There is very limited infrastructure as everything was destroyed.  In other words, the roads, educational system, governance, buildings, agricultural and business community is all being rebuilt.  (Dirt road, in the rainy season, turn to mud.)  Few people in Barclayville have electricity. (People charge cell phones at little kiosks that have lots of places to plug in such gadgets.)   There is extremely limited television (only at video clubs).  Almost no one in Barclayville uses the internet.  Most people haven’t used a computer.  Today, the National Teachers Association expressed the goal of purchasing “modern type writers” in the coming years (they mean type writers, not a quaint word for computers.)  People, including me, walk to water pumps to collect buckets of water.  People pile onto motorbikes to get around (3-4 people per bike).  Women cook over coal pot stoves that sit on the ground.  And kids entertain themselves by running around outside, and racing wheels by running after them with a stick.  

What is the weather?  

Honestly, with no thermometer, I don’t know.  Assume it is always in the 80s, always humid, and the sun is strong.  Could be worse.  But not my favourite either.  I do like that frequent thunder/lightening.  Rainy seasons recently started which means, apparently, it will rain every day.  Maybe not all day, but a portion of each day. 

How is the school? 
In a word, the school is great.  The administration seems committed to education, doesn’t seem to be corrupt (like other stories I have heard about other schools), and students are well behaved and interested in learning something. 

At the same time, it is extremely resource poor, we just (last week) got a library/reading room established, the students do not have books (and certainly not the same books), the photocopiers hadn’t been in working order, and everything that students are to learn needs to be written on the chalk board for them to copy down.  Students are generally below (or far below) grade level.  I asked students to write down what they wanted to be in 5 years.  In the 10 minutes I have them, one 10^th grader wrote “I dotor.”  (that’s “doctor” without the “c”).  There is lots of “spying” (cheating, copying, “helping friends”) in Liberian schools and Barclayville isn’t that different.  (And some students are really terrible at covering up their “spying”.  Like having a friend take another friends paper and start doing the quiz for them, in different handwriting and different pen from what the original students was writing.  They think it is funny that I can figure out when they’ve done this – they laugh and shake my hand when I point it out.) 

Whenever I get discouraged, I remind myself that this isn’t a problem I’m going to solve; the educational system is going to need a decade or two to really get to where it needs to be.  

What do you do day-to-day? 

6am – curse the rooster who wakes me up
6:30 – get up and make coffee, bucket bath #1
7:45 – depart for school
8:00 – first lesson
12:00 – venture home
13:00 – go find lunch
13:00 to dusk:  find something to do, read, on Thursday I am hope to meet my laundry woman, etc.
19:00 – close door for evening to prevent critters from coming it, maybe tune to BBC, bucket bath #2
21:00 or 22:00 or 23:00 – go to bed (my computer AND external hard drive died, so no movies for me)

Request: A few magazines

To say there are very few resources in the school I am teaching in would be an understatement.  There is no electricity.  There is no science library (yet).  And no library (yet). 

None of my students have used a computer before.  And, when it came up, I had to explain what the internet was as well as "Google". 

But more importantly, there is no reading material available.  No books or magazine or newspapers.  High school students, who are expected to take a national (and, indeed, West African) exam that assumes the kind of vocabulary one needs to do well on the SAT, have nothing to read. 

In a class of 50 students, perhaps one will have a grammar book.  And there are no books for sale in Barclayville.  Literally no books for sale.  And no magazine or newspapers.  "Reading material" includes notes written on a chalk board, signs on buildings, and maybe a Bible (maybe...)  Teachers who have the opportunity to travel two to three days to Monrovia, purchase their own books to use in classes.  (And there is no ability to make photocopies of material for students.) 

My contract here is short - six months.  I have no disillusions about my impact; I'm not building a library.  But the small contribution I may be able to make is providing the students with some reading materials.  Examples of what English language articles look like. 

Perhaps you can help? 

I (and the other teachers at the school) would be very grateful if you would consider sending a few magazines you've received at your home.  Stuff you've already read is fine.  News, sports, nature, etc.  Nothing too advanced (i.e. Foreign Affairs).  Aim for a 6th - 9th grade reading level.  Something comparable to Time or Newsweek would be great.  The idea is for teachers to have materials to refer to and students have the opportunity to read articles, identify grammar, and find new words. (If you have stuff for little kiddies, I can deliver that to the local elementary school.) 

Here's how to do it: 
1.  Select a few magazine. 
2.  Put them in an envelope (maybe one of those flat bubble wrap ones that probably hold 5 magazines). 
3.  Address the envelope. 
4.  Bring to post office and pay postage. 
5.  Let me know it is on the way, so that I know to look for it.  (Note:  Please don't send anything past June 1st - I depart at the end of July and want to ensure everything is delivered to the school prior to my departure.) 

Kendra Gray
C/o US Peace Corps
PO Box 707
Monrovia, Liberia (West Africa)

Thank you! 

P.S.  If you want to send something else, please consider a small (i.e. softcover dictionary).  Nope, no dictionaries available either...

Pakistani Hospitality in Liberia

This update is brought to you by the Pakistanis.  Because tonight, in Barclayville, I had dinner with the three top personnel at the local Pak Batt (Pakistani Battalion) in Barclayville and the head of the local mission was generous enough, when he heard I didn’t have internet set up yet because the USB stick I have wasn’t working, he offered to let me try his to see if it works better.  Success!  Now I know what I need to get online.  And I owe him a big “thank you”! 

Bigger picture, I learned tonight that the UN decides which countries will be deployed to what regions of the world.  Pakistani was assigned to Liberia.  Ergo the many “Pak Batts” in the country.  The one in Zwedru and Harper have canteens that are officially open to various NGOs (and Peace Corps).  With very tasty Pakistani food. 

I stopped by my local Pak Batt today to say “hello” to those in charge and introduce myself, learn what they do, learn more about the UNMIL helicopters (which pick up/drop off on Tuesday), etc.  In the process, I learned that they have a small canteen and that I was able to eat there for the usual $3/dinner.  One of the personnel invited me this evening, and several hours later, I was learning about the Pakistani mission here (and explaining about Peace Corps) over a tasty meal of chicken soup, chicken and chic peas, and sweet rice.  Yay!  J 

There are many cultures that pride themselves on their hospitality towards strangers.  Georgia, Liberia, and, yes, Pakistan.  An invitation to dinner, the offer to charge electronics, and allowing me to borrow an internet stick for the evening… 

First shots of Monrovia

(View of Westpoint Region of Monrovia, taken from atop abandoned hotel)

 

(View from atop abandoned hotel)

(View of masonic lodge, from atop abandoned hotel)

Welcome to Monrovia, Liberia!

Sunday, January 26, 2013:  arrival in Monrovia.  While taxiing to the gate, I saw the World Food Program tents.  And the UN presence.  Getting through the airport wasn’t too bad (and all my luggage arrived). 

It was after dark when we got to the Peace Corps vehicles and were driven to the PC training facility in Kapata.  On our way we drove through the very large Firestone facility – rubber trees, processing plant, etc.  (Recommended:  Google “Firestone Liberia history” or something like that.) 

Monday:  Training

Tuesday:  Training, including visit to local school (more about that later)

Wednesday:  Training and trip to Monrovia (for overnight).  Stopped by PC office, did administrative things, and then went on a walking tour of the city.  Monrovia (downtown) is small, bustling, not particularly safe, and “struggling”.  Lots of Liberians running small businesses, and lots of NGOs in town (and facilities and expat/NGO housing behind high walls with barbed wire – with security guards). 

When we went to the PC office I thought “This is a lot of security to guard a bunch of volunteers with backpacks and Chacos…”  (Security there includes the high wall, metal gate, and all vehicles (including PC vehicles) have their engines and under the vehicle checked (mirrors) before they can enter.  And PC is just one of the many, many organization driving around in “real” Landrovers with red diplomatic (or other official) plates.  I’ve seen the Chinese Development people, UN vehicles, USAID, and everything else under the sun.  (And umpteen signs for various aid agencies.) 

Again, every official organization is highly guarded with walls, barbed wire (or glass atop the concrete walls), metal gates (you honk, the guard peers out, and then pulls the gate open), etc. 

We’ve been repeatedly warned against theft.

Example:  The currently serving Peace Corps Response Volunteer had the following experiences a couple of weeks ago.  He was in downtown Monrovia at 10pm, he was attacked by a few men for his iphone and wallet, he gave the phone but resisted giving his wallet, a crowd saw what was happening, chased the men, stoned them and one of the thieves died. 

The same volunteer seems to know everyone and everything of interest to do.  He suggested we go to an abandoned hotel to see the view.  Basically, when the war broke out, the hotel was vacated and eventually locals looted the entire thing.  Today it is an empty concrete building.  Our visit went something like this:  We walked up to the hotel, our guide found his squatter friend and then talked to the security guard there about getting us up to the roof.   (There were lots and lots of locals up there, largely kids, hanging out, too.)  The security guard was offended that our guide went to the squatter first and a shouting match ensued (between security and the squatter).  Eventually both were given a sum of money by our guide (some would call this a bribe) and the guard brought us up to the 8^th or 9^th floor for the view.  Great view of the city!  Ocean, Westpoint (aka very poor area), bridge, abandoned Masonic Temple, etc.  While up there, we saw a gagillion bats flutter out of one of the big trees. 

Post walking tour, we had dinner at a restaurant literally on the beach.  (To get to the restaurant, you drive into the behind-a-gate guarded parking lot.)  I put my feet in the ocean (though water in that area isn’t considered to be clean because a) people use the beach as a toilet, b) rivers dump into the ocean there, and c) I’m sure city sewage also dumps there).  Ironically, Vietnamese food was the specialty (the chef is Vietnamese-American.)  Restaurant was 90% American/European. 

We spend the evening in St. Theresa’s Convent/Guesthouse.  It is one of the few establishments that stayed open during the war/”conflict”.  (Apparently the head nun is the woman featured in many documentaries about the war in Liberia.)  We got back to the convent after dark to find no electricity but the way to our rooms was lit by a few candles placed on the floor in the corridors.  A great reminder of the challenges the country, including the capital, face.  A member of the PC staff, when I pointed out that we didn’t have drinking water, went out and returned with bottled water.  (The tap water was on, but a) isn’t always good for foreign stomachs and b) was running at a very slow rate.  I had a quick “shower” before bed and got to rinse soap off with a “stream” of water that was equivalent to drippy faucets I’ve seen.  Aka enough water to make a single stream, but not enough to easily clean off a toothbrush.  (At midnight the electricity came on again with the AC.) 

Which is all to say that this is certainly the poorest country I’ve spent time in.  (Which is a little obviously actually, because in terms of income, it’s arguable the poorest country in the world – literally (look up UN statistics).)  Apparently average annual income is $250. 

All that being said, Peace Corps has a GREAT reputation here (more about that later), I will be spending very little time in Monrovia, the PC staff are excellent, and I have a whole bunch of things to look forward to.  Like being a “real” PC Volunteer – aka living in a house with no electricity or running water (Russia wasn’t nearly as hardcore), trying new food (monkey meat), and…  being able to catch a ride on the UNMIL (United Nations Mission in Liberia) helicopters if there is space.  :D

Which is all to say that this is going to be tough, but I’m not overwhelmed (yet).  ;) 

You're going to Liberia why...?

I have a variety of stupid excuses for going to Liberia.  Like "I worked pretty hard to move all my stuff to my parent's basement pre-Georgia; why not getting a second trip out of all that effort?" And "I don't particularly enjoy spring in Boston."  And "No mortgage, no kids, no commitments."  

But on a more serious note, I think possibly the easiest way to explain why I'm going to Liberia is this:  Because I can.

I can explain.  And there are some other reasons, too.

1.  Because there are no guarantees. 
This time last year, a friend of my then-significant other was trying to figure out the medical issues he was encountering.  Eventually a diagnosis was made:  pancreatic cancer.  What a reminder that, just because I have my health now, doesn't mean something screwy isn't going to happen next year/month/week.*   

This summer, while in Cappadocia, Turkey, a fellow (Australian) traveler commented that "Most people live their lives backwards.  They work when they're young, with the intent to travel when they're older.  But when they're older, they often can't due to health issues.  We should live our lives the other way around."

Ergo, if I have the opportunity to go to Liberia now, why not take advantage of that opportunity?  Who wants to look back and say "I always wanted to do that.  But never did.  And now I can't."

2.  Because I can; I have my health (and so do my parents).  
A few years ago, my summer began with me in a Boston hospital wondering "What do you mean there might be a problem?  I'm a mostly-vegetarian who eats organic food and exercises.  What do you mean you want to send my medical information to an oncologist for a second opinion!?!"  While I was (and am) fine, I know many people who have encountered unexpected (or chronic) medical issue.  And these aren't elderly people.  Often cancer related.  There's something about such an experience to help one re-prioritize.  In addition to me having my health, my parents have theirs.  Why wait? 

3.  Because I haven't spent much time in Africa.  
A bunch of years ago I was meeting a friend at an event at Harvard which recognized the work that women were doing in post-conflict regions of the world.  The honored guests were women from Rwanda.  One of the women and I started chatting.  She asked "Have you ever been to Africa?"  My response was a sheepish facial expression, the rocking hand gesture that means "so-so" and that "Mmmmmm" noise that means "Maybe?".  She smiled, patted my hand and said "You've been to Morocco."  "Yes," I replied.  "But I do plan to go to Africa for real one day."

Then, when interviewing for my upcoming position, I was asked "Why do you want to go to West Africa?  You haven't been to Africa before."  I corrected her (reminding her that I'd spent over three weeks in Tamale, Ghana) and then talked about what interested me about the position.  But, in addition to the explanation I gave her, there was another reason:  I never want to be asked that question again.

In addition to enjoying seeing "new" places, as someone with a long standing interest in development issues, it feels important to spend time in a place that is facing so many of the issues that so many poor countries are struggling with. 

 4.  Because maybe the experience will contribute to some divine idea about what to do next.  
I would love to have a long-term plan for my life.  And there are times when I wish that I'd be satisfied getting some job that I can work in until it's time to retire (or die).  Unfortunately, however, I don't have a firm plan and I don't want to settle for something that is unfulfilling.  So I continue to collect experiences in the hope that one day they will come together in some ah-ha! moment. 

5.  There's some unfinished business.  Odds and ends...  
I've worked for the federal government before.  And I spent time in Ghana a couple of summers ago.  And I'm not done with either. 



* Given the "Carpe Diem" reminder that TC's illness provided me, it was a little ironic that his final demise happened a couple of weeks ago, while I was home in Boston between my Georgia and Liberia adventures.

Wait... You're going to Liberia?

Yes, I'm going to Liberia.  At least, assuming I get my passport - which is supposed to arrive on Thursday.  I depart on Saturday.  Two days after I get my passport.  But first, a few answers to some common questions. 

Where is Liberia?  For how long? 
I will be with Peace Corps Response in Liberia for six months.  Peace Corps Response is a Peace Corps gig open to people who have already done a full (27 month) Peace Corps gig somewhere.  Because I was in Russia for 2 years a bunch of years ago, I can apply for PC Response (which used to be called Crises Corps).  PC Response gigs are shorter than regular PC gigs - 3, 6, 9, 12 months. 

What will you be doing? 
I will be teaching high school English, likely in the southeastern part of the country.

Is it safe?  Isn't there a war going on there?  
There was a civil war in Liberia.  But it's over.  And Peace Corps is back.  PC had been in Liberia years ago, left due to the war, and it currently in the process of transitioning to "regulr" PC country.  The first PC volunteers to go in after the war were Response volunteers and then they gradually began transitioning to a regular two year program.  As a Response volunteer I will be helped to meet the need of too few teachers in the country while also essentially trying out a "new" site that, eventually, a two year volunteer will move into.

As for safety, the official answer is "Yes, it's safe.  PC only goes to safe places."   The more accurate answer might be "It will be as safe as I make it.  Kind of like Boston.  If I walked in traffic in Boston, drunk off my ass, in the middle of the night, it might not be safe.  But I like to think I'd avoid such unsafe situations."  ;) 

And then there's the biggest question, WHY?  Why are you going?  
See next post...