Saturday, May 18, 2013

Laundry


Laundry.  I love it.  The word, concept, process, and result.  

What I don’t understand is why it is that so many people seem to hate it.  As in “Ugh!  I spent all afternoon doing laundry.”  I don’t understand why putting clothes into piles and periodically putting them into machines and pushing buttons is arduous.  I don’t understand why folding a basket of clean, dry clothes takes more than 5 minutes – a perfect little occupation while watching the news.  And I don’t understand why one would acquire clothing that is too difficult to care for.  (I hate ironing and therefore won’t purchase anything that needs ironing.)  But back to my love of laundry. 

First of all, laundry is a great word.  So much better than “doing the wash”.  A special word for the cleaning of clothes and similar items.  

Secondly, the concept of laundry is fascinating.  What is laundry?  It is clothing (and other textiles) that is in the process of going from dirty to clean, unusable to usable.  You do not wear laundry.  Laundry is either dirty clothes in a pile waiting to be washed, clothes being washed, or clothes that need to be dried, folded, or put away.  Once it is in your drawer, it is no longer laundry.  It has magically transformed back into clothes. 

But the process of doing laundry is weirdly fascinating.  You add soap to water, throw in the clothes, swish everything around and see the water turn that murky brown color.  When I am using a washing machine, I cannot resist the urge to open the top and peak in for the satisfaction of seeing the brown water, or stand in front of the front loader’s window and watching the clothes circle the machine, proof that the clothes I get back will be cleaner than those I put it.  Doing laundry by hand, a task that is more time intensive and laborious also has the satisfaction of that dirty water, and also the dirt collected at the bottom of the wash basin. 

I first did laundry by hand in Bulgaria in 1997.  One day, when I had first arrived in Bulgaria, I was having lunch with a friend who said something like “you know when you’re scrubbing your jeans with that little brush…?”.  Having never washed clothes by hand, yet not wanting to admit it, I nodded.  Several days later, as my pile of dirty clothes grew and clean clothes diminished, I went to the outdoor market, purchased a small brush, and decided this was the secret to washing clothes by hand.  That first time I washed jeans, I was fascinated to see, after having allowed the jean to soak, the dirt at the bottom of the washing tub. 

In Russia, I washed much of my laundry by hand (with the exception of sheets and towels – which I brought to a local woman working at a hotel).  I would put hot soapy water in the bathtub, throw in the clothes, swish everything around, and then go out for the afternoon, letting them soak for hours.  When I returned, the dirt would be at the bottom, I would use my little brush to scrub a few items that I knew needed special attention, rinse, ring out, and hang the items on pipes to dry.  (The drying process was faster in the winter when the pipes were heated.) 

In Ghana, while there for a one-month fellowship, I went out one day, bought a little brush in the market, and each evening would wash the day’s clothes on the shower floor.  Others who hadn’t done laundry by hand before were intrigued and also started to try to do laundry by hand. 

In Georgia, I lived in places with washing machines, but when our machine in Tbilisi broke, I pulled out the wash basin and a little brush. 

Now in Liberia, I have asked a local woman to wash for me on Thursdays.  But, for some reason, possibly due to the use of a washing board, I find that my clothes are getting a little too beaten up.  So, I decided that she can do the sheets, towels, and any items that I don’t care too much about.  And I will do the clothing items I want to keep for a bit longer. 

I know that the first thing I will do when I get home is fill a washing machine with clothes and soapy water and watch the dirt fall from the clothes into the water.  And then use that miraculous machine called a “dryer” to, in under an hour, dry everything.  In less than two hours, all my items will go through the transformation from dirty, unwearable items to items in the process of being cleaned to items that can be put away or worn. 

And what do I get at the end of this process?  Not simply clean clothes.  But the opportunity to wear my favourite items again.  Because most of us wear our favourite items first, dirtying them, and transforming them into laundry.  I would argue that most loads of laundry include favourite items that we are waiting to wear again.  Favourite jeans, favourite shirts, favourite, as a friend would say, “unmentionables”. 

Laundry.  What could be more satisfying? 

Basic Amenities


Last night, on my way home from a meeting with the Barclayville beekeeping club, I stopped by the UNMIL base for a couple of reasons.  First, I figured there would be people to visit with – and perhaps associated refreshments.  And secondly, I needed to pick up my external battery, which I had left charging there earlier.  Having had no electricity in my house for the past week (as opposed to the usual 4 hours of power 70% of the week) due to a broken generator across the street, I had brought my external battery to UNMIL to charge so that I could use it to charge small appliances (phones, Kindle, iPod, etc.) as needed at home.  
 
I sat down with a few people and joined the conversation, which predictably, as one might expect at a UN base, centered around politics.  And, more notably, the fact that their generator had just broken, the first time in three years.  Computers, air conditioning, microwaves, and refrigerators had all been silent since noon that day.  A Ugandan, a Liberian, a Nepali, and me.  Soon two Pakistani majors from the military side of the base joined us.  One had just arrived in Barclayville via helicopter several hours before, and had only been in Liberia for several days.  At some point he turned to me and asked the usual set of questions about who I was and what I was doing in Barclayville.  As the only non-UN person in the group and a female (a minority in all Liberian expat and development circles), I am a bit of an anomaly, and I have found that many UN and other development people are curious as to why I am in Liberia, why I don’t have a car and driver, etc. 

And then one of the majors asked “How can you live the way you live?  You don’t even have basic amenities like electricity and running water.”  (I was asked the same question by his predecessors a few months ago including the question “Do you really think you can do it for the whole six months?”)  I laughed and replied that my neighbours didn’t have those amenities either, and that, in fact, I sometimes have electricity at night.  They asked “But what do you do at night, if you have no power?”  I replied “I have a solar light, I have candles, and at night I go to sleep.”

But the phrase the stuck in my head was “basic amenities”.  Given that the men do not speak English fluently, it wouldn’t be appropriate to overthink their choice of words, but “basic amenities” is an interesting concept. 

What “services” are basic or the lowest acceptable standards, and what are luxuries? 
The water pump near my house is just across the street.  I have a very nice ceramic water filter (ensuring that my drinking water is safe).  Unlike my neighbors, I have an indoor bathroom (that I carry water into).  And, also unlike my neighbors, I do get electricity most evenings.  I have an electric hot water boiler for evenings when I have electricity, so I boil water at night and put it into a thermos for the following morning’s coffee (real coffee, that I bring in from the capital).  I have a way to charge the various electronics I chose to bring (including a phone with internet), even when the power is off.  I have a computer and USB modem.  And, just as important, a safe community where I can put buckets out to collect rainwater or clothes to dry, and feel confident that nothing will be stolen.  In addition, my house is large, clean, and has a zinc (not thatched) roof.  And, while I do share the house with some critters, some acceptable (spiders, a baby frog/toad that enjoys my bathroom, lizards) and some not acceptable (cockroaches, ants), they don’t get in my way (and indeed, inspire me to wash dishes quickly). 

This isn’t to say that one day I’m not going to be seeking out a nice front-loading EnergyStar washer/drier combo.  And a Bose sound system.  And, yes, a fancy wine refrigerator.  But that doesn’t mean that I cannot adjust to the reality of where I am now. 

What I currently have is certainly comfortable.  So what are basic amenities?  And how important are they? 

Monday, May 6, 2013

Liberia - Probable FAQs - "Tell me a cool story!"


Tell me something cool you’ve done or seen!  Have you had any adventures? 
- I flew on UNMIL helicopters twice (to and from Monrovia) – Because I was going to Monrovia on “official business” I got to take the UNMIL helicopter.  Yay!  And, thankfully, I wasn’t bumped due to “more important people” trying to also fly.  Fun fact:  the UN helicopters are run by Russian crews flying Russian machines. 
- A man and his wife showed up at my door to show me gold dust they had mined at the (illegal) local gold mine.  17 or 18 grams.  I’m fairly certain they wanted to know if I wanted to buy it.  (I had spoken to students and expressed interest in learning more about the mines and actually seeing the gold.  Apparently, word got out.) 
- I watched (and played photographer for) two bee keepers who went into a local farm to capture a colony of wild bees, to bring them back to their bee keeping facility. 
- I spent nearly a week in Harper, Liberia.  Which is architecturally fascinating.  And met a bunch of UN people there.  Including went to their local UN only bar at the Indian UN base. 
- I’ve met a bunch in UN folks, including folks at the big base in Harper.  Plus, visiting a bunch of PakBats (Pakistani Battalions) – basically because they serve tasty Pakistani food for a great price.  
- I spent a week in Monrovia, including several evenings inside the old US Embassy compound, where the ambassador lives
- I saw a girl, post-arrest, waiting for her parents.  Her crime:  running away from home so that she could go to school (which her father didn't approve of) 
- I've met a bunch of interesting people, who I won't be writing about until after July. 

(check back to see if I come up with other tidbits to add) 

Liberia - Probable FAQs - How's the food? (Part I)


As anyone who knows me can attest, food is a great love of mine.  Therefore... 

How is the food?  

Typical food in south eastern Liberia is as follows:  large bowl of imported white rice (probably from India, the US, or Vietnam) and a second bowl of very oily, spicy “soup”.  “Soup” is very oil stew that comes in the following varieties:  chopped greens with piece of fish or “cow meat” or other type of meat in it, stewed beans with fish and/or “cow meat”, or eggplant with fish and/or meat.  There is also “palm butter” which I have yet to have.  Which is amazing given that it is the regional dish.  But any dish that elicits laughter when I ask “what is it?” is not something I am eager to try.  I understand it to be a large bowl of white rice covered in spicy palm oil.  

If you don’t want white rice and spicy, oily stew, you can go to a tea shop and get one of the following:  “fried egg” (sort of like an omelette), fried egg in bread (i.e. white roll) with mayonnaise (aka egg sandwich), mayonnaise sandwich, spaghetti, spaghetti with beans or perhaps “quakeroat” (i.e. oatmeal).  In all dishes from tea shops, the secret ingredient is “chicken sou” (aka chicken bullion).  In fried eggs, you’ve mixed ½ a bullion square.  In spaghetti, you’ve made a sauce with tomato paste, onion, spicy pepper and a bullion square.  (In case you’re thinking “great!  Local eggs!” let me add that many of the eggs in Liberia are imported from India.)  See note under “Seriously.  What is life in Liberia like?” regarding how the agricultural system needs to be rebuilt.  

What do you eat? 
My daily food intake is as follows: 
- Real, brewed coffee (which I get from Monrovia or have sent in) with a spoonful or two or powdered milk.  I boil the water the night before and store it in a thermos.  With several hours of electricity in the evening (assuming there is a football game on across the street), a hot water boiler was a brilliant purchase. 
- At school I purchase what I call “peanut butter squares” from a woman who works there.  Small cubes that apparently are a mixture of peanut butter, farina and sugar.  There are supposed to be 1 square for 5 ld (Liberian dollars), but she give me 3 for 10 ld.  (1USD = 73 LD) 
- After school, I walk home, change clothes, wash my hands, and go out for lunch.  I rotate between egg sandwich (2 eggs), spaghetti with beans (or now, spaghetti with fried egg) and some sort of rice/soup combo.  Everyone at the “cook shops” (places that serve rice/soup or palm butter) know that my preference is the beans and rice.  (Given the lack of nutrients I was encountering (white rice, white bread, and cassava don’t seem like a good diet plan), I was constantly seeking out protein (aka beans). 
- My new thing is, when I’m going to a tea shop for either egg sandwich or spaghetti, to bring along my own bottle of Tabasco sauce and/or fake, shelf stable cheese wedges to make things a little more interesting. 
- Beverages:  While many places in Liberia have “mineral water” (aka water in sealed plastic bags or plastic bottles), the water in Barclayville seems to be water bagged by the establishment.  Which I won’t drink.  So I always bring my own water.  Or, at tea shops, I order tea.  I specify “black Lipton”, which isn’t actually Lipton, but it is a black tea bag.  If I just say “tea”, I will likely get Ovaltine or a chocolate Ovaltine product, with sweetened condensed milk and hot water.  Which isn’t bad, just not what I want.  I have been known to purchase a bottle of Liberian beer to drink at home in the evening, too. 
- I used to sometimes cook some sort of dinner, but honestly, cooking on an outdoor kerosene stove is a messy pain.  So, dinner now is something like bananas with peanut butter, crackers with peanut butter, a hard boil eggs with Tabasco sauce, a fruit (coconut or pineapple or papaya) – no refrigeration so that I have to eat it in one sitting, or some other similar thing.  Now that I have a hot water boiler (purchased in Monrovia a few weeks ago), at night (if there is electricity), I might make oatmeal or farina (because I can just mix the grain and water in my cup and stir – with powdered milk and some sort of sweetener).  I decided to get fancy last week and make cheesy farina.  Which meant mixing farina, fake shelf stable cheese, salt, pepper, Tabasco and that shelf stable Parmesan product that comes in a green container in the US, but a blue container here.  (While I feel that fake Parmesan shouldn’t be part of anyone’s pantry in a place where one has a refrigerator, I’m happy to have it here.)

When I arrived, I had high hopes for the market, but it is, as my students say “poor”.  More on that later. 

Liberia Probable FAQs - Part I - "What is Liberia like?"


It is May.  Which means I haven’t posted anything new for a long time. 

The basic reason is because I knew a few months ago that I didn’t know enough about what I was seeing to make any intelligent observations.  And I was going to need some time to figure out what was going on. 

And then today, I received a text from the person who will be following me and I though “Wow!  I thought I was at the halfway point.  Turns out I’m farther alone than that.”  Time to post observations…  starting with a few probable FAQs. 

Probable FAQs: 

What is Liberia like?  What is life in Liberia like? 
For those who have been asked this about experiences living overseas, I will apologize for including this question in my list of FAQs.  ;)  For those who hadn’t been asked such a question before, this is a somewhat ridiculous question.  Before asking someone to sum up life in a country into 2-3 sentences, ask yourself if you could sum up life wherever you live, to someone who knows little to nothing about it, in 2 sentences.  Tell me about life in Washington, DC!  Tell me about life in New York!  Tell me about life in Moscow!  Tell me about life in Tokyo!  Or worse yet:  Tell me about life in the United States!  Tell me about life in Russia!  Tell me about life in Japan!  Do you mean what does the place look like?  Or what are the people like?  Or what do you do?  Or are the stories I see on the news true?  Or what?  

Okay, point taken.  Seriously.  But what is life in Liberia like? 
Okay.  In my experience, in the one community I have live in, for the few months that I’ve been here…  Barclayville is a pretty community, that feels like a community – as opposed to a place where a bunch of people who have built their lives around a commercial strip of road (which is what I think places like Pleebo and Zwedru feel like).  People are nice and friendly.  I haven’t experienced theft or violence.  (Theft is a big issue in other areas of the country.) 
But Liberia is a developing country, trying to rebuild after years of civil war.  It is arguably on the list of 10 poorest countries in the world.  There is very limited infrastructure as everything was destroyed.  In other words, the roads, educational system, governance, buildings, agricultural and business community is all being rebuilt.  (Dirt road, in the rainy season, turn to mud.)  Few people in Barclayville have electricity. (People charge cell phones at little kiosks that have lots of places to plug in such gadgets.)   There is extremely limited television (only at video clubs).  Almost no one in Barclayville uses the internet.  Most people haven’t used a computer.  Today, the National Teachers Association expressed the goal of purchasing “modern type writers” in the coming years (they mean type writers, not a quaint word for computers.)  People, including me, walk to water pumps to collect buckets of water.  People pile onto motorbikes to get around (3-4 people per bike).  Women cook over coal pot stoves that sit on the ground.  And kids entertain themselves by running around outside, and racing wheels by running after them with a stick.  

What is the weather?  
Honestly, with no thermometer, I don’t know.  Assume it is always in the 80s, always humid, and the sun is strong.  Could be worse.  But not my favourite either.  I do like that frequent thunder/lightening.  Rainy seasons recently started which means, apparently, it will rain every day.  Maybe not all day, but a portion of each day. 

How is the school? 
In a word, the school is great.  The administration seems committed to education, doesn’t seem to be corrupt (like other stories I have heard about other schools), and students are well behaved and interested in learning something. 
At the same time, it is extremely resource poor, we just (last week) got a library/reading room established, the students do not have books (and certainly not the same books), the photocopiers hadn’t been in working order, and everything that students are to learn needs to be written on the chalk board for them to copy down.  Students are generally below (or far below) grade level.  I asked students to write down what they wanted to be in 5 years.  In the 10 minutes I have them, one 10th grader wrote “I dotor.”  (that’s “doctor” without the “c”).  There is lots of “spying” (cheating, copying, “helping friends”) in Liberian schools and Barclayville isn’t that different.  (And some students are really terrible at covering up their “spying”.  Like having a friend take another friends paper and start doing the quiz for them, in different handwriting and different pen from what the original students was writing.  They think it is funny that I can figure out when they’ve done this – they laugh and shake my hand when I point it out.) 
Whenever I get discouraged, I remind myself that this isn’t a problem I’m going to solve; the educational system is going to need a decade or two to really get to where it needs to be.  

What do you do day-to-day? 
6am – curse the rooster who wakes me up
6:30 – get up and make coffee, bucket bath #1
7:45 – depart for school
8:00 – first lesson
12:00 – venture home
13:00 – go find lunch
13:00 to dusk:  find something to do, read, on Thursday I am hope to meet my laundry woman, etc.
19:00 – close door for evening to prevent critters from coming it, maybe tune to BBC, bucket bath #2
21:00 or 22:00 or 23:00 – go to bed (my computer AND external hard drive died, so no movies for me)