Irony: Walking up to the elevator

Elevators generally have a few basic purposes.
1.  Getting people who can't or don't want to take the stairs from one level to another.
2.  Get heavy stuff up and down so that people don't need to carry it.

So, I was amused to find that, in the apartment building I spend several days in, I needed to walk up 23 steps to get to the elevator.  And, once I got to my destination level, I needed to head up another half-flight of stairs to the destination apartment.  Not particularly useful for people who can't or don't want to take the stairs.

View up the elevator.  There are 7 steps to get to the level I stood on to take the photo. 

View from the apartment door down to the elevator. 

But, I thought, maybe they're really only there for heavy loads.  Well, not only does someone with, say, a piano, not want to walk up 23 stairs to get to the elevator, but the elevator is also too small to carry large items.  Sure, you can put a bag of potatoes in it, but with dimensions that don't exceed four feet square, it cannot carry furniture.  In fact, most pieces of furniture wouldn't fit in because the door is extremely narrow, certainly less then 2 feet wide. 

The stairs aren't the only challenge.  First, there's the light (or lack there of).  (In my photos, the flash is helping out.)  Normally, it's dark until the motion sensor detects me.  Inside the elevator, there is no light at night.  And second, the final three steps are *really shallow*.  As in, if I stand on the steps, my heels aren't on the step.

Which makes me wonder what the point of the elevator is.  I don't know when the building was built, but if it was after the Great Patriot War (aka WWII) I'd think that at least a few veterans could have used an elevator.  And parents with baby carriages could use on (and a larger elevator).

Then again, the elevator only works if the electricity works, and that hasn't always been the case. 

How to make a Whiskey Sour in Georgia

I recently had dinner with a Georgian friend in Tbilisi who asked how my housing search was going.  In a city  where people find apartments by word of mouth and where many landlords have a "no foreigners" policy, finding apartments is difficult.  After nearly two weeks of living in dorms at the Police Academy, I was a little tired of the lack of privacy and lack of kitchen.  I said this, at dinner.

Her response was as follows:  "I'm going to Bulgaria on business.  Do you want to stay at my place for four days?  I'm sorry I couldn't offer it to you on my prior business trip - a friend was going through a nasty break-up, so he was staying at my place."  I wasn't sure what the right response was.  I was thinking "YESSSSSS!"  But, I also didn't want to accept an offer if she was only being polite.  Long story short, I took her up on it. 

The afternoon the apartment was free, I ventured over with the spare key.  And, like I always do, first inspected the fridge.  Okay, that's not true.  First I determined there was an actual bath tub.  (And wondered if it would be appropriate to fill it up with hot water and scented bath salts.  Does she pay alot for hot water?  Does the hot water even work?)  THEN I inspected the fridge and found that, yes, she never cooks. 

Next stop, the grocery store.  I returned a few hours later with eggs, milk, onions, potatoes, vegetables, spices, nuts and ...  whiskey.  While out, I decided what I really wanted was a whiskey sour. 

Here is how you make a whiskey sour in Georgia. 

1.  Reflect on whether there is ice in the fridge.  If not, consider freezing water in a plastic bag and breaking it up.  Thankfully, my host has an ice tray.  This isn't standard in Georgian freezers. 

2.  Go buy whiskey.  If you're like me, you'd never be caught with Johnny Walker Red in your personal bar.  One starts with JW Black and moves up.  But in Georgia, you need to reassess.  Go into the store, check out the whisky collection.  If you don't know the brand to be legit, don't buy it.  Try to read the prices.  It's tough as the liquor is at least 7 feet in the air, on a shelf behind the counter.  Ask the woman behind the counter the price of the JW Black.  That's "Johnny Walker Chorney" (JW Black - in Russian).  And, to compare, also ask about the Kraskey (Red).  She'll hop up onto a chair, need you to repeat what you want, and start reading prices (printed on small stickers on the bottles).  And eventually you select your whiskey.  It's okay to buy JW Red - it's 20 lari for a small bottle.   Why spend 50 lari for a larger JW Black if you're going back to alcohol-free dorms - and don't want to incriminate yourself by leaving a half-empty bottle of JW Red at your host's place.  Besides, you're mixing it.  No one will every know you let your standards drop. 
2b.  Buy a lemon while you're out.   You can buy lemons in Tbilisi off-season; you cannot do this in the village. 

3.  Return to apartment and assess the simple syrup situation.  The sugar bowl.  How much sugar is there?  Simple syrup is 1/2 water, 1/2 sugar.  Heat it up in your hot's frying pan.  Put it in a tea cup and let it cool in the fridge. 

4.  Now it's time to assemble:  Take a chacha (hard alcohol) shot glass and fill it with whiskey.  Put in a glass.  Then add a similar amount of simple syrup.  And then a bunch of lemon juice.  And now to shake...  Your host doesn't have a Boston Shaker...  What to do? 

5.  Put the entire mixture, plus ice, into your travel coffee mug.  WTF!?!  Yes, really.  Screw the top on and shake.

6.  Take the top off, pour into glass.  Be careful to avoid getting lemon seeds into your drink - it's not like the coffee mug people had lemon seeds in mind.

7.  Mmmmm...

Services in Georgia (Batumi, Tbilisi, etc.)

Below is a list of services I've stumbled upon while living in Georgia.  Please feel free to contact me if you see inconsistencies or things that should be added/updated. 

Hair: 
Salon Podium.  Sergei does a great hair cut for those with short hair (women included).
15 lari (yes, seriously, 15 in July 2012). 
locations:  There are two locations.  I went to the downtown location, not the Vake location. 
How to get there: Head down (street), towards the Casino....

Pedicure:  
Salon Podium also does pedicures, manicures, etc.  Pedicure was 27 lari in July 2012.  

Massage: 
Thai Massage Center: Tbilisi.  Thai massage for 55 lari, relaxation massage for 60 lari.  Email them to make a reservation.  Thai owned (or so it appears) with English speaking Georgian working the desk.  Cash only. 
Address:  Kostava 75/a
Note that to find them you need to go through an underpass into the residential area and walk back a couple of minutes.  See map on backside of card (below).  

Another Thai massage location:  Next door to the Roman Catholic Church in Tbilisi's Old Town.  Details to come.  

Relaxation massage (Batumi): 
Address:  located across the street from the main covered fruit/vegetable market (that is behind the Roman Catholic church).  

The Raddison in Batumi also gives massages, but they are very pricey.
 

Grocery Stores:
Good Will (Tbilisi):  Very large superstore - with food and lots of other stuff.  Great to know about but there are a bunch of products I was looking for that I couldn't find.  Example:  there is no baking powder (as opposed to soda), brown rice, soba noodles, tortellini, ...  In terms of non-food items, they sell bikes but no helmets.  No reflective tape.  Didn't have the special battery I needed. 

Carrefore (Tbilisi):  Located in Tbilisi Mall.  Huge and awesome.  Probably the best the selection of products in all Georgia.  No metro service.  Mall is in the north part of the city.  Ask a taxi to take you to "Tbilisi mall" or "Tbilisi Mall-i".  

Smart Market (Tbilisi):  Located on Rustaveli next to Radison Blu.  Good selection.  Spice section is somewhat limited (and in Spanish). 

Good Will (Batumi):  Much, much smaller than the Tbilisi store.  Has a more extensive line than a traditional Georgian store.

Willmart (Batumi):  Better than Batumi's Goodwill.  More products, larger store.  Apparently prices are also slightly lower.  There are a few products (like balsamic vinegar) that, interesting, Willmart doesn't have but Goodwill does.
Address:
How to get there: 

Turkish Store (Batumi):  Great store if you're looking for spices, chic peas, ayran or other dairy products.  Plus a bunch of standard Georgian groceries. 

Other Shopping:  There is a new Tbilisi mall.  It can be reached by taking the Metro to (stop) and then taking a bus.  The mall is more empty than full at this point (July 2012) but it currently has a Clarks, Gap, and Banana Republic (if memory serves). 

For shopping, also consider crossing into Turkey from Batumi.  It's an easy day-trip from Batumi. 

Restaurants in Batumi:  


Press Cafe:  Has wifi.  A little pricey.  Started by Peace Corps volunteer. 
Cafe Literatura:  Has wifi.  A little pricey.  Lobiani is good.  A chain with a few locations in Tbilisi. 
Piazza - Good Woman Pub
Piazza - other restaurant
Vinyl - next to Iranian embassy. 
Blue restaurant on water.

Restaurants in Tbilisi:  

Hangar Bar:  One of the best sports bars in town.  They serve breakfast all day. 
Betsy's Hotel Pub:  Very popular with Tbilsi's long-term expat community.  Located up the hill from Rustaveli Metro.  32-34 Makashvili Street. 
Cafe Gallery:  Located a few minutes from Rustaveli Metro.  Free wifi.  Tasty food.  Comfortable place to sit with a computer or book for several hours at time. 

Tasty treats:  
Pastry and baklava store in Turkish area of Batumi. 

Trains:  
You can purchase train tickets in Batumi at 5 General Mazniashvili St (between Melashvili and Abashidze).  Bring a passport, even if it's a domestic train trip.  (For train trips, bring your own food and water.) 

Batumi Airport:  
Warning:  if you're ticket is from Hopa, you need to go to Hopa, Turkey to check in.  A bus will bring you back to Batumi for the flight. 

Bicycle shop: 
Batumi - 59 and 61 Pushkin Street.  There are two bike shops in Batumi on Pushkin street.  I'm not sure which is which - 59 vs 61, but one has lots of spare parts, a few helmets, lights, tires, etc.  They do not have reflective tape - I had that sent from home. 

English language library:  
Batumi library has an American corner.  With free wifi.  The book collection includes fiction, nonfiction, study guides, and TEFL materials.  The DVD collection is mostly kids stuff, but there is some adult stuff also (mostly classics).  If you're a local resident, you can get a card.  A card allows you to check out books (fiction and nonfiction) and DVDs.  Bring a passport to get a card. 

How to cross into Turkey at Sarpi:  
If you are an American, a visa will cost you $20 (90 day, multiple entry).  If you are Canadian, it will cost you $60 USD.  Bring your passport to the border at Sarpi, go through the line and eventually you'll be shooed to go purchase your visa (and return to have it inspected).  Fairly easy process.  The border also has a duty free and a Turkey cafeteria.

Travel Truths I Am Observing In Georgia

• The internet makes being abroad totally different than it was 10 years ago.  
• Skype is awesome.  Have a problem with your credit card?  Call the credit card company and talk to a rep.  
• Online banking and other online financial information is super convenient.  
• Online stuff means I know what's happening with people at home.  
• Internet means any information I want, I can get.  Also, I can download movies. 
• Technology is great.  
  
• Cafes with wifi are awesome.  And worth the higher coffee prices. 
• Mini computers can be your primary computer.  
• Even if your smart phone doesn't work as a phone, it's great for wifi.  
• The Massachusetts library networks are incredible.  Reserving and downloading ebooks to an ereader is easy, fast and cheap.  Highly awesome when there's free time aplenty! 

• Russian is a super useful skill in some places.  Like Georgia.  And Armenia.  Honestly, I don't know how people can get around in some places without it. 
• Smoking is gross.   I don't like breathing poisonous air, and it annoys (actually, angers) me when I don't have a choice. 

• The comforts of home aren't necessary.  
• Wear the same two or three shirts and pants all the time is a little boring, but it makes getting dressed in the morning easy as there are so few choices.  
• Once can have a comfortable bathing experience with 3 litres of hot water.  
• When hard water and shampoo don't mix, try baking soda.  
• One can dry ones self with a wash cloth.  Just wring it out.  
• Who says you cannot make something like filter coffee with a Turkish grind and a pot on the stove? 
• Bottled water is over-rated.  Even if you're outside the US. 
• The hardest part of a trip is the "planning and get going part".  Once you're on the train, it's easy.  
• Host country nationals are similar in many ways.  It seems that... 
• Everyone thinks their country has delicious food.  Sometimes it's not so delicious.  But it would be rude to say that. 
• Everyone thinks that a particular dish is "ours".  Like Georgian host-mother who was surprised I'd had dolma before; she didn't realize the Greeks and Turks also make them - and sell them all over the world in their restaurants.  (Also, the Armenians and other make them, too.)  
• Everyone thinks that getting an "English speaker" to talk to me is going to helpful.  But sometimes the "English speaker" has skills that are so limited, it's not worth the effort.  This is particularly true when people get their grandchildren who are "studying English in school". 
• No one seems to understand that an ice coffee is filter coffee poured over ice.  Why am I being asked about ice cream!?!  Also, an Americano and filter coffee are not the same thing. 
• Everyone thinks that tea is caffeine free. 
• Sometime people kill what could be perfectly tasty food.  
• Mayonaise should never be added to pizza in lieu of cheese.  
• Hot dogs are not a food product and shouldn't be added to anything.  
• Boiling vegetables to death is a horrible way for a vegetable to die. 
•  Be prepared.  
• Bring your own Swiss Army knife.  
• It's not cheating to bring your own vegetable peeler. 
• Nyquil, Dayquil, Immodium.  
• Ear plugs, eye mask

• There's no need to always go with the cheapest option.
• Yes, I continue to buy extra virgin olive oil.  And balsamic vinegar.  It's tasty. 
• Sometimes the best way to get somewhere is to hail a cab.  Especially if you've got luggage.  
• Just because Georgians seem to consume 80% of their calories in the form of khachepuri (cheesy bread) and sliced bread doesn't mean I need to. 

Yerevan

Yerevan!  Yerevan?  Where’s that and why? 

Yerevan is the capital of Armenia (the country). 

I am not working this summer.  Sounds like a great deal, but honestly, I’m the kind of person who likes to have lots of stuff going on so after about 36 hours of nothing substantial to do, I start clawing at the walls.  Earlier this summer I decided it was time to get out of the village and head to Tbilisi (capital of Georgia); my 4 day trip turned into 1.5 weeks because I didn’t want to return to the village just yet…  (And I had a long blog entry written about Tbilisi, and then it disappeared, and I haven’t recreated it yet.  Boo!)

So, the beginning of August (right after returning from Tbilisi), I looked at the calendar and realized I needed a Thing To Do in mid-August, the 15^th to be precise, because the 15^th is my birthday.  And not just any birthday this year; it was the “5 Year Warning” to 40 birthday.  Me + the village + my birthday was not a good combination.  So, after determining that a last minute flight to, say, London was a little pricey, I decided to be a little crazy.  While I fully intended to visit Armenia (including Yerevan), I actually didn’t plan to do it in August.  Armenia is hot.  According to my Bradt travel guide Yerevan (the capital) has the following climate:  “Precipitation is light at 277 mm per annum with … August the driest (8mm).  The average temperature varies from -3C in January to 26C in July though the averages mask considerable diurnal variation:  nighttime lows in January are around -15C while daytime highs in July reach 44C.”  In other words, me being in Yerevan in mid-August is a sure way to make me very ill due to my tendency to get heat stroke.  But, it was Yerevan or the village, so I chose Yerevan. 

But before going into my time in Yerevan… 

Armenian history in short:  Noah had an ark (yes, really, we’re starting with Noah).  Water receded, ark was grounded on Mt. Ararat (currently Turkey; Genesis 8:4).  Noah and the zoo emerge and settle down in the area.  Noah’s grand son (or maybe it was great grandson) is the father of the Armenian people.  They have their own alphabet (that looks nothing like Roman or Cyrillic or Georgian).  They live in a territory that has lots of struggle.  They’re stuck between Turkey and Russia.  A bunch live in Turkey and start feeling nationalistic – which Turkey doesn’t like.  In the early 1900s Turkey decides to kill the Armenian population in Turkey (by putting them in the desert so they starve).  No big powers intervene.  Lots of people die.  Word “genocide” to coined.  Russia is having its own revolution.  They suck up Armenia into the USSR.  Armenia is Soviet state until the fall of the USSR in 1991.  Armenia diaspora is very supportive of Armenia and has been helping to rebuild the country.  Example of famous person of Armenian descent:  Cher.  Also, Andre Aggasi. 

Today Yerevan seems to be a city on the up-and-up, if one is to judge by the swanky shops in town.  And the relative abundance of newer cars (though old Soviet cars are also on the street). 

Back to my trip: 

Train ride from Batumi > Yerevan:  I bought my ticket at the ticket office in downtown Batumi the day before I left – for 68 lari, or $36 (?). 

The train ride from Batumi to Yerevan is about 15 hours – departing at 4pm-ish (okay, it was supposed to be 3:20, but we really left at 4:10 – I don’t know why).  The train goes from Batumi to Tbilisi (arriving at about mid-night) and then to the border (gah!  See below) and then to Yerevan.  The intent is to arrive at 6:30 am or so.  We were perhaps 90 minutes late. 

The train ride started off well.  There were two people from Slovenia in my coupe (train compartment – one wagon has maybe six compartments, four people per compartment).  They were on there “mini-honeymoon” as they were recently married (the real honeymoon in Tokyo is coming up).  So we chatted about the two weeks they were spending in Georgia and Armenia, how he wants to get an MBA in the US (I was trying not to shamelessly sell Boston), etc.  And then it was bedtime.  Or so we thought. 

Long story short, the border crossing was a mess.  Key points include: 

• Every 45 to 60 minutes from midnight to 4am, there was something else for us to do re: passports and visa (and it was needlessly inefficient)
• No part of the border crossing process was explained to us so we were guessing for the duration (and all three of us had some ability to speak/understand some Russian)
• We had to hand our passports over to the people working on the train (not official authorities).
• The person carrying the passports had a stack for the entire train – which means he was walking the length of the train with them (and if you know Russian train cars, when you walk between train cars, there’s nothing to stop dropped  items from falling on the tracks).
• We were awoken so that the train people could confirm that my two compartment-mates were from Slovakia – they’re not – they’re from Slovenia and why ask when you are holding someone’s passport?
• At 3am we were escorted (yes, escorted) off the train to get our visas.  Which was a mess – at least 20 of us standing around while they scanned our passports, processed visas, etc.  And, while it was *interesting* to see how the passport scanner works (and how all the information pops up on the screen, etc.) it didn’t feel all that kosher to have everyone watching everyone’s passport details flashing on screens (thanks to a set up where we were all facing the screens).

So, by 4am we were back on the train, and chugging along (though we were disrupted again when the man working on the train returned our Armenian compartment-mate’s passport).  We were awoken at 8am and arrived in Yerevan at 9am. 

Thankfully, like all good former Soviet cities, the train station is close to the center of town, and there’s a Metro stop one can easily transfer to.  We hopped on the Metro and the two Slovenians got off after two stops and I after three.  I arrived at my hostel shortly thereafter, sleep deprived, and was glad to see that my scheming had worked out.  I’d requested a bed in a two-person room.  The fact that the hostel hasn’t had many guests means that I’ve had a private room.  Yay! 

Tuesday: 

After a nap, I ventured out for the afternoon. 

Republic Square:  Formerly Lenin Square, Republic Square is the big central square in Yerevan.  And, like Tbilisi, they have chosen to put a Marriott in that square.  My guide book says “It is certainly one of the finest central square created anywhere in the world during the 20^th century.  …  Underneath the square is a large bunker constructed during the Cold War to protect officials from danger in the event of a nuclear attack.  Since independence, suggestions have been made that it could be handed over to the museum as an additional display area but lack of funding together with renewed tensions in the Middle East will probably ensure that it retains its original purpose for the time being.”  As for the Marriott, it originally was the Hotel Armenia.  It was “possibly Yerevan’s best hotel after its opening in 1954…  It has now been extensively refurbished by the Marriott chain.  During the rebuilding work a secret floor was discovered with 1.5m-high ceiling:  it was used by the KGB to spy on the guests.” 

National Gallery:  The National Gallery (and State Museum) (built in 1926 and 1950, respectively) look onto Republic Square.  I visited the Art Gallery and found that, yes, as my guide book indicated, they insist that you start on the 7^th floor and work your way down.  Which means that I began in the European art, then saw the Russian art, and then finally see the Armenian art.  Which means that, by the time I got to what should be the point of the visit, I was a little tired and not as appreciative as I might.  Why do they have so much art?  According to my book “It is sometimes claimed that Yerevan needed a large new art gallery after 1945 because many valuable works of art were brought here for safe keeping during the war years from other Soviet cities and never subsequently returned; the collection is almost certainly the finest in the former USSR apart from those of Moscow and St. Petersburg.” 

Wednesday: 

Genocide Museum:  My priority on my trip was to see the Armenian Genocide Museum.  To understand Armenia, one needs to know about the genocide.  And when Hitler’s rallies his generals on the eve of his invasion of Poland in 1939 with “Who still talks nowadays of the extermination of the Armenians?”, the history of Armenia is a big part of world history, too. 

To recap, the Armenia Genocide can be summed up with this:  Lots of Armenians lived in Turkey, they started to feel nationalistic, Turkey didn’t like it, and the Turkish government decided to kill them all (or raise orphaned Armenian children in Turkish homes or orphanages to make them Turkish).  (Number) of people were killed.  To date, the Turkish government hasn’t acknowledge the genocide. 

The memorial and museum were great.  Though the museum assumed one knew the history with a certain degree of detail.  Really nicely put together, lots of stuff to look at, etc.  And, like other museums dedicated to Educating the Masses About How We Were Wronged (Latvia’s Occupation Museum, Tbilisi’s Georgia Occupation Museum), it was a) really well put together, b) well labeled in a variety of languages, and c) free.  Its only “problem” is that it’s a bit out of the downtown area, and while I was crazy enough to walk the 4 miles, uphill, in the summer heat, not everyone would enjoy the walk.  

The walk up to the monument and museum

Ararat Brandy Factory:  So, I tend to find food and drink interesting.  And Armenia seems to be known for its brandy, so why not stop by the Ararat Brandy factory for their tour and tasting!?! 

(Note:  I’m calling it brandy, unlike the locals who call it cognac.  Throughout the USSR, Armenian brandy was consumed, but called cognac.  But technically, cognac is from the Cognac region of France.  Like champagne beverage that is technically from a specific region of France, unless you’re in the Russian realm where place of origin isn’t important.) 

So, after the Genocide Museum, I stopped for food (who wouldn’t if you’re going to have brandy?) and then proceeded to the Ararat factory – to find it closed!  The sign said tours went until 4pm – and it was nearly 4pm.  So, I figured I’d return the next day.  What happened when I returned?  I was told that actually the museum and tour are closed until August 21^st.  Boo! 

History of Yerevan Museum:  This museum was fairly small and not totally about the history of Yerevan, but still nice.  I have to admit that I skipped the first of the three floor because it is basically ancient archeological findings.  Which means it's pots.  Every area that dates back centuries and centuries has pots.  Which I do not find exciting, as they all look the same; all they say to me is "Look!  Ancient people ate also."  (Which, I suppose, means I have something in common with them.)  The museum staff, who opened the door on the various levels on an as-needed basis (aka when people are going through) didn't understand why I didn't want to see their first floor.  The second floor featured more 19th and 20th century regalia, but nothing that was really about the history of the city.  And the 3rd floor, which was supposed to be "Yerevan as the Capital of Three Countries" was more recent award, prizes, and letters from other cities.  Like the letter from Mike Dukakis regarding the sister city project.  But I still got to learn random things.  Like, given that there was a photo of the opening of the Yerevan subway from 1980, the subway is only about 30 years old.  Despite the fact that it sort of resembles Moscow's, which is much older. 

Yerevan Marriott:  I don’t usually think the Marriott is worth writing about specifically (though their bathrooms are lovely), but when you’re in the Marriott (to loiter and use their free Wifi) and the nice waiter comes to ask if you’d like some coffee or tea – or cake, and it’s your birthday, the Marriott is nice.  And it becomes even cooler when you read later that the original hotel had an additional level so that the KGB could spy on guests.  

DIY Rock Club:  Continuing on my theme of oppression, I decided to see if I could find the DIY Rock Club at Parpetsi 16.  Why?  Because in May 2012 the club, which is lesbian-owned and gay-friendly, was the victim of arson, again.  (News article) 

Square One:  For birthday dinner what did I really want?  A smoke-free environment!  So, I headed to Square One, which serves somewhat pricey, Ameicana food.  With a no smoking section!  And Wifi!  Santa Fe spring rolls, BBQ salad, and margarita.  And apple pie.  Yay! 

Walking home that nice (walking at night – a pleasure I cannot do in the village) there was a week little bit of drizzle.  Given that Yerevan gets so little rain, I decided that being rained on on my birthday was a fortuitous sign.  

Thursday: 

Thursday theme was “eating”. 

I started out by heading to the Ararat Brandy Factory (where I learned that they were closed for another few weeks).  And then continued to the train station to get a ticket back to Georgia.  I had the times mixed up so, while I could have taken Thursday’s train to Georgia, it would have been without my luggage as the train left in the afternoon, not in the evening as I though.  So I purchased a ticket for Friday – for 16,000 Armenian Dram ($40).  While at the train station, I spied an outdoor market and decided what I clearly needed was three peaches.  Which I brought back to Republic Square (to wash in the drinking fountains) and eat on a park bench.  And then I went looking for a late lunch.  Which was soup, beet and walnut salad, and mineral water. 

Spas, made from yogurt, hulled wheat and herbs (usually cilantro)

Beet and walnut salad

And then I walked toward the Opera House and found myself near a pastry areas so….  You know…  bought some pastry.  And brought it back to the hostel where I made a cup of tea and ate the pastry. 

Friday: 

After doing nothing substantial on Thursday, Friday was a day to do a few things of interest before heading on a train back to Tbilisi.

Coffee!  How better than to start the day with a filter coffee and toasted bagel with creat cheese?  In a cafe which tries to procure organic ingredients.  And is smoke free.  And has wife.  Also, yes, it was playing folk music.  Delightful!

Covered market:  My plan was to go to Covered Market (fruits, veggies, etc.) after my breakfast, but alas, it closed some time before my arrival in Yerevan.  Apparently a supermarket has purchased it and is doing construction.

Blue Mosque:  Yes, Yerevan, like Istanbul, has a Blue Mosque.  The mosque was built in 1745 (aka almost 270 years ago), and according to my book, after being a museum during Soviet days, was, in 1999, "renovated in Persian style at the expense of the Iranian government".  Which continues to be supported by Iran, which Armenia allows as a way of sort-of placating their powerful neighbor.  Which made my experience there "interesting".

I went in, looked at the grounds (aka nice garden), but was prepared to not go into the actual mosque because I'd forgotten a scarf that day (and didn't feel a cap was a good substitute for a head scarf).  I was close to the door or the mosque when a man came out and invited me in, assuring my my cap was fine.  Inside I found three friendly men who decided to act as hosts (one who originally invited me in and served as translator, one who sang excerpts from the Koran for me, and a third who basically listened to the conversation). The following is our conversation - a nice example of the difference between being honest and prudent.

Q. Where are you from? A. America.  [This is a standard intro to any conversation.] 
Q. Do you believe in God? A. Yes. (vs. "Define 'God'.  Did you have a particular image in mind?")

Q. Are you Christian? A. Yes. (vs. "Sure, let's skip a theological discussion and simplify and go with that...")
Q. Would you like to break the fast with my family tonight? (It's Ramadan.) A. Thank you for the invitation, but I have a train to catch. (true)
Q. Are you married. A. No. (Here we go again...)
Q. Are you married some nights? A. I don't understand. (Are you kidding?)  [I learned later that in Iran, men are sometimes able to get a temporary marriage so that they can spend the evening with someone without breaking any rules.  Maybe he thought such licenses was an option elsewhere?]
Q. Do you know Salman Rushdie's and his book about the devil? A. No. (Oh crap...)

And then my host/translator offered to take my photo.  First in my regular clothes, and one, at his suggestion, in the stock Muslim women's garb that he pulled out of some corner.  (I realized at the time that the 2nd photo was blurry, but after the mention of S. Rushdie, it was time to leave...)

(Note:  A week or so later I told the story of the Blue Mosque to two people in Tbilisi, a  30-ish year old Iranian man and a slightly older man from Iraq who had lived in Iran for many years.  Both were displeased with how the three men in the mosque had behaved.  And proceeded to tell me about what they thought about Iranian government workers.)  

Bad Photo Pun:  Evan Allah is behind energy efficient light bulbs! 

Armenian Cathedral:  How does one follow up a conversation that strays onto the topic of Salman Rushdie, when you suspect your hosts might be affiliated with the Iranian government?  A trip to the Yerevan Cathedral.  It was dedicated to St. Gregory the Illuminator in 2001.  In other words it is new.  And it's atypical for Armenian churches because a) it has seating (aka pews), b) candles aren't allowed inside, c) it has an organ, and d) it's huge (aka seats 1700 people).

And then I got on the train back to Tbilisi...  

Amusing Images from Turkey

How could I not share the following?  

Cat seen near Istiklal Street.  Clearly someone has a sense of humor - I presume not the cat.

It's a chicken - in Uggs.