Yerevan

Yerevan!  Yerevan?  Where’s that and why? 

Yerevan is the capital of Armenia (the country). 

I am not working this summer.  Sounds like a great deal, but honestly, I’m the kind of person who likes to have lots of stuff going on so after about 36 hours of nothing substantial to do, I start clawing at the walls.  Earlier this summer I decided it was time to get out of the village and head to Tbilisi (capital of Georgia); my 4 day trip turned into 1.5 weeks because I didn’t want to return to the village just yet…  (And I had a long blog entry written about Tbilisi, and then it disappeared, and I haven’t recreated it yet.  Boo!)

So, the beginning of August (right after returning from Tbilisi), I looked at the calendar and realized I needed a Thing To Do in mid-August, the 15^th to be precise, because the 15^th is my birthday.  And not just any birthday this year; it was the “5 Year Warning” to 40 birthday.  Me + the village + my birthday was not a good combination.  So, after determining that a last minute flight to, say, London was a little pricey, I decided to be a little crazy.  While I fully intended to visit Armenia (including Yerevan), I actually didn’t plan to do it in August.  Armenia is hot.  According to my Bradt travel guide Yerevan (the capital) has the following climate:  “Precipitation is light at 277 mm per annum with … August the driest (8mm).  The average temperature varies from -3C in January to 26C in July though the averages mask considerable diurnal variation:  nighttime lows in January are around -15C while daytime highs in July reach 44C.”  In other words, me being in Yerevan in mid-August is a sure way to make me very ill due to my tendency to get heat stroke.  But, it was Yerevan or the village, so I chose Yerevan. 

But before going into my time in Yerevan… 

Armenian history in short:  Noah had an ark (yes, really, we’re starting with Noah).  Water receded, ark was grounded on Mt. Ararat (currently Turkey; Genesis 8:4).  Noah and the zoo emerge and settle down in the area.  Noah’s grand son (or maybe it was great grandson) is the father of the Armenian people.  They have their own alphabet (that looks nothing like Roman or Cyrillic or Georgian).  They live in a territory that has lots of struggle.  They’re stuck between Turkey and Russia.  A bunch live in Turkey and start feeling nationalistic – which Turkey doesn’t like.  In the early 1900s Turkey decides to kill the Armenian population in Turkey (by putting them in the desert so they starve).  No big powers intervene.  Lots of people die.  Word “genocide” to coined.  Russia is having its own revolution.  They suck up Armenia into the USSR.  Armenia is Soviet state until the fall of the USSR in 1991.  Armenia diaspora is very supportive of Armenia and has been helping to rebuild the country.  Example of famous person of Armenian descent:  Cher.  Also, Andre Aggasi. 

Today Yerevan seems to be a city on the up-and-up, if one is to judge by the swanky shops in town.  And the relative abundance of newer cars (though old Soviet cars are also on the street). 

Back to my trip: 

Train ride from Batumi > Yerevan:  I bought my ticket at the ticket office in downtown Batumi the day before I left – for 68 lari, or $36 (?). 

The train ride from Batumi to Yerevan is about 15 hours – departing at 4pm-ish (okay, it was supposed to be 3:20, but we really left at 4:10 – I don’t know why).  The train goes from Batumi to Tbilisi (arriving at about mid-night) and then to the border (gah!  See below) and then to Yerevan.  The intent is to arrive at 6:30 am or so.  We were perhaps 90 minutes late. 

The train ride started off well.  There were two people from Slovenia in my coupe (train compartment – one wagon has maybe six compartments, four people per compartment).  They were on there “mini-honeymoon” as they were recently married (the real honeymoon in Tokyo is coming up).  So we chatted about the two weeks they were spending in Georgia and Armenia, how he wants to get an MBA in the US (I was trying not to shamelessly sell Boston), etc.  And then it was bedtime.  Or so we thought. 

Long story short, the border crossing was a mess.  Key points include: 

• Every 45 to 60 minutes from midnight to 4am, there was something else for us to do re: passports and visa (and it was needlessly inefficient)
• No part of the border crossing process was explained to us so we were guessing for the duration (and all three of us had some ability to speak/understand some Russian)
• We had to hand our passports over to the people working on the train (not official authorities).
• The person carrying the passports had a stack for the entire train – which means he was walking the length of the train with them (and if you know Russian train cars, when you walk between train cars, there’s nothing to stop dropped  items from falling on the tracks).
• We were awoken so that the train people could confirm that my two compartment-mates were from Slovakia – they’re not – they’re from Slovenia and why ask when you are holding someone’s passport?
• At 3am we were escorted (yes, escorted) off the train to get our visas.  Which was a mess – at least 20 of us standing around while they scanned our passports, processed visas, etc.  And, while it was *interesting* to see how the passport scanner works (and how all the information pops up on the screen, etc.) it didn’t feel all that kosher to have everyone watching everyone’s passport details flashing on screens (thanks to a set up where we were all facing the screens).

So, by 4am we were back on the train, and chugging along (though we were disrupted again when the man working on the train returned our Armenian compartment-mate’s passport).  We were awoken at 8am and arrived in Yerevan at 9am. 

Thankfully, like all good former Soviet cities, the train station is close to the center of town, and there’s a Metro stop one can easily transfer to.  We hopped on the Metro and the two Slovenians got off after two stops and I after three.  I arrived at my hostel shortly thereafter, sleep deprived, and was glad to see that my scheming had worked out.  I’d requested a bed in a two-person room.  The fact that the hostel hasn’t had many guests means that I’ve had a private room.  Yay! 

Tuesday: 

After a nap, I ventured out for the afternoon. 

Republic Square:  Formerly Lenin Square, Republic Square is the big central square in Yerevan.  And, like Tbilisi, they have chosen to put a Marriott in that square.  My guide book says “It is certainly one of the finest central square created anywhere in the world during the 20^th century.  …  Underneath the square is a large bunker constructed during the Cold War to protect officials from danger in the event of a nuclear attack.  Since independence, suggestions have been made that it could be handed over to the museum as an additional display area but lack of funding together with renewed tensions in the Middle East will probably ensure that it retains its original purpose for the time being.”  As for the Marriott, it originally was the Hotel Armenia.  It was “possibly Yerevan’s best hotel after its opening in 1954…  It has now been extensively refurbished by the Marriott chain.  During the rebuilding work a secret floor was discovered with 1.5m-high ceiling:  it was used by the KGB to spy on the guests.” 

National Gallery:  The National Gallery (and State Museum) (built in 1926 and 1950, respectively) look onto Republic Square.  I visited the Art Gallery and found that, yes, as my guide book indicated, they insist that you start on the 7^th floor and work your way down.  Which means that I began in the European art, then saw the Russian art, and then finally see the Armenian art.  Which means that, by the time I got to what should be the point of the visit, I was a little tired and not as appreciative as I might.  Why do they have so much art?  According to my book “It is sometimes claimed that Yerevan needed a large new art gallery after 1945 because many valuable works of art were brought here for safe keeping during the war years from other Soviet cities and never subsequently returned; the collection is almost certainly the finest in the former USSR apart from those of Moscow and St. Petersburg.” 

Wednesday: 

Genocide Museum:  My priority on my trip was to see the Armenian Genocide Museum.  To understand Armenia, one needs to know about the genocide.  And when Hitler’s rallies his generals on the eve of his invasion of Poland in 1939 with “Who still talks nowadays of the extermination of the Armenians?”, the history of Armenia is a big part of world history, too. 

To recap, the Armenia Genocide can be summed up with this:  Lots of Armenians lived in Turkey, they started to feel nationalistic, Turkey didn’t like it, and the Turkish government decided to kill them all (or raise orphaned Armenian children in Turkish homes or orphanages to make them Turkish).  (Number) of people were killed.  To date, the Turkish government hasn’t acknowledge the genocide. 

The memorial and museum were great.  Though the museum assumed one knew the history with a certain degree of detail.  Really nicely put together, lots of stuff to look at, etc.  And, like other museums dedicated to Educating the Masses About How We Were Wronged (Latvia’s Occupation Museum, Tbilisi’s Georgia Occupation Museum), it was a) really well put together, b) well labeled in a variety of languages, and c) free.  Its only “problem” is that it’s a bit out of the downtown area, and while I was crazy enough to walk the 4 miles, uphill, in the summer heat, not everyone would enjoy the walk.  

The walk up to the monument and museum

Ararat Brandy Factory:  So, I tend to find food and drink interesting.  And Armenia seems to be known for its brandy, so why not stop by the Ararat Brandy factory for their tour and tasting!?! 

(Note:  I’m calling it brandy, unlike the locals who call it cognac.  Throughout the USSR, Armenian brandy was consumed, but called cognac.  But technically, cognac is from the Cognac region of France.  Like champagne beverage that is technically from a specific region of France, unless you’re in the Russian realm where place of origin isn’t important.) 

So, after the Genocide Museum, I stopped for food (who wouldn’t if you’re going to have brandy?) and then proceeded to the Ararat factory – to find it closed!  The sign said tours went until 4pm – and it was nearly 4pm.  So, I figured I’d return the next day.  What happened when I returned?  I was told that actually the museum and tour are closed until August 21^st.  Boo! 

History of Yerevan Museum:  This museum was fairly small and not totally about the history of Yerevan, but still nice.  I have to admit that I skipped the first of the three floor because it is basically ancient archeological findings.  Which means it's pots.  Every area that dates back centuries and centuries has pots.  Which I do not find exciting, as they all look the same; all they say to me is "Look!  Ancient people ate also."  (Which, I suppose, means I have something in common with them.)  The museum staff, who opened the door on the various levels on an as-needed basis (aka when people are going through) didn't understand why I didn't want to see their first floor.  The second floor featured more 19th and 20th century regalia, but nothing that was really about the history of the city.  And the 3rd floor, which was supposed to be "Yerevan as the Capital of Three Countries" was more recent award, prizes, and letters from other cities.  Like the letter from Mike Dukakis regarding the sister city project.  But I still got to learn random things.  Like, given that there was a photo of the opening of the Yerevan subway from 1980, the subway is only about 30 years old.  Despite the fact that it sort of resembles Moscow's, which is much older. 

Yerevan Marriott:  I don’t usually think the Marriott is worth writing about specifically (though their bathrooms are lovely), but when you’re in the Marriott (to loiter and use their free Wifi) and the nice waiter comes to ask if you’d like some coffee or tea – or cake, and it’s your birthday, the Marriott is nice.  And it becomes even cooler when you read later that the original hotel had an additional level so that the KGB could spy on guests.  

DIY Rock Club:  Continuing on my theme of oppression, I decided to see if I could find the DIY Rock Club at Parpetsi 16.  Why?  Because in May 2012 the club, which is lesbian-owned and gay-friendly, was the victim of arson, again.  (News article) 

Square One:  For birthday dinner what did I really want?  A smoke-free environment!  So, I headed to Square One, which serves somewhat pricey, Ameicana food.  With a no smoking section!  And Wifi!  Santa Fe spring rolls, BBQ salad, and margarita.  And apple pie.  Yay! 

Walking home that nice (walking at night – a pleasure I cannot do in the village) there was a week little bit of drizzle.  Given that Yerevan gets so little rain, I decided that being rained on on my birthday was a fortuitous sign.  

Thursday: 

Thursday theme was “eating”. 

I started out by heading to the Ararat Brandy Factory (where I learned that they were closed for another few weeks).  And then continued to the train station to get a ticket back to Georgia.  I had the times mixed up so, while I could have taken Thursday’s train to Georgia, it would have been without my luggage as the train left in the afternoon, not in the evening as I though.  So I purchased a ticket for Friday – for 16,000 Armenian Dram ($40).  While at the train station, I spied an outdoor market and decided what I clearly needed was three peaches.  Which I brought back to Republic Square (to wash in the drinking fountains) and eat on a park bench.  And then I went looking for a late lunch.  Which was soup, beet and walnut salad, and mineral water. 

Spas, made from yogurt, hulled wheat and herbs (usually cilantro)

Beet and walnut salad

And then I walked toward the Opera House and found myself near a pastry areas so….  You know…  bought some pastry.  And brought it back to the hostel where I made a cup of tea and ate the pastry. 

Friday: 

After doing nothing substantial on Thursday, Friday was a day to do a few things of interest before heading on a train back to Tbilisi.

Coffee!  How better than to start the day with a filter coffee and toasted bagel with creat cheese?  In a cafe which tries to procure organic ingredients.  And is smoke free.  And has wife.  Also, yes, it was playing folk music.  Delightful!

Covered market:  My plan was to go to Covered Market (fruits, veggies, etc.) after my breakfast, but alas, it closed some time before my arrival in Yerevan.  Apparently a supermarket has purchased it and is doing construction.

Blue Mosque:  Yes, Yerevan, like Istanbul, has a Blue Mosque.  The mosque was built in 1745 (aka almost 270 years ago), and according to my book, after being a museum during Soviet days, was, in 1999, "renovated in Persian style at the expense of the Iranian government".  Which continues to be supported by Iran, which Armenia allows as a way of sort-of placating their powerful neighbor.  Which made my experience there "interesting".

I went in, looked at the grounds (aka nice garden), but was prepared to not go into the actual mosque because I'd forgotten a scarf that day (and didn't feel a cap was a good substitute for a head scarf).  I was close to the door or the mosque when a man came out and invited me in, assuring my my cap was fine.  Inside I found three friendly men who decided to act as hosts (one who originally invited me in and served as translator, one who sang excerpts from the Koran for me, and a third who basically listened to the conversation). The following is our conversation - a nice example of the difference between being honest and prudent.

Q. Where are you from? A. America.  [This is a standard intro to any conversation.] 
Q. Do you believe in God? A. Yes. (vs. "Define 'God'.  Did you have a particular image in mind?")

Q. Are you Christian? A. Yes. (vs. "Sure, let's skip a theological discussion and simplify and go with that...")
Q. Would you like to break the fast with my family tonight? (It's Ramadan.) A. Thank you for the invitation, but I have a train to catch. (true)
Q. Are you married. A. No. (Here we go again...)
Q. Are you married some nights? A. I don't understand. (Are you kidding?)  [I learned later that in Iran, men are sometimes able to get a temporary marriage so that they can spend the evening with someone without breaking any rules.  Maybe he thought such licenses was an option elsewhere?]
Q. Do you know Salman Rushdie's and his book about the devil? A. No. (Oh crap...)

And then my host/translator offered to take my photo.  First in my regular clothes, and one, at his suggestion, in the stock Muslim women's garb that he pulled out of some corner.  (I realized at the time that the 2nd photo was blurry, but after the mention of S. Rushdie, it was time to leave...)

(Note:  A week or so later I told the story of the Blue Mosque to two people in Tbilisi, a  30-ish year old Iranian man and a slightly older man from Iraq who had lived in Iran for many years.  Both were displeased with how the three men in the mosque had behaved.  And proceeded to tell me about what they thought about Iranian government workers.)  

Bad Photo Pun:  Evan Allah is behind energy efficient light bulbs! 

Armenian Cathedral:  How does one follow up a conversation that strays onto the topic of Salman Rushdie, when you suspect your hosts might be affiliated with the Iranian government?  A trip to the Yerevan Cathedral.  It was dedicated to St. Gregory the Illuminator in 2001.  In other words it is new.  And it's atypical for Armenian churches because a) it has seating (aka pews), b) candles aren't allowed inside, c) it has an organ, and d) it's huge (aka seats 1700 people).

And then I got on the train back to Tbilisi...